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The Original™ Warehouse LED Gooseneck Light

14" The Original LED, 975- Galvanized Finish | G26 Gooseneck Arm, 980-Brushed Aluminum14" The Original LED, 975- Galvanized Finish | G26 Gooseneck Arm, 980-Brushed Aluminum
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The Original™ Warehouse LED Gooseneck Light 12" Original LED, 200-White | G26 Gooseneck Arm, 980-Brushed Aluminum 16" Original LED, 995-Raw Copper, G65 Gooseneck Arm, 100-Black 16" Original LED, 975-Galvanized, G14 Gooseneck Arm | Customer Submission LED Gooseneck Backing Plate 14" Original LED, 100-Black, G65 Gooseneck Arm 12" Original LED, 997-Raw Brass, G15 Gooseneck Arm, Decorative Backing Plate & Hex Cover

CODE: BLE-G-WHS-PC-LED


  • Barn Light Exclusive
  • Canadian Standards Association Listed
  • Made to Order
  • Wet Location Rated
  • No Returns

  • (hover over images to learn more)

$276.00




Finish Chart / Features

Durable finish colors to fit any style from traditional to retro to modern
Dozens of styles, projections, designs and angles to choose from
Add vintage flavor to any shade with a wire cage
LED Lens Styles

Product Details

We find inspiration in all forms of vintage lighting. Along with the warehouse lighting and gooseneck barn lights we're known for, the gas station lights of the late 1920s have been particularly influential. With a sudden enthusiasm for automobiles, service stations began popping up to meet the maintenance needs of this new technology. The outdoor gooseneck lights used to illuminate these venues were extremely durable, with many surviving to the present day. Inspired by this quality craftsmanship, we've brought this classic option to the modern day.

This American made lighting shows off those classic designs, but also fuses LED components directly into the shade. This process helps our LED lighting last much longer than simply equipping standard fixtures with LED light bulbs. Our gooseneck LED lights output light for a longer period of time than other options, but also emits a lower amount of heat. This energy efficiency leads to a reduced energy bill, providing greater savings in the long run.

The style of our industrial lighting fixtures is a popular choice with modern designers. The Original™ often found hanging outside of contemporary businesses or illuminating country homes. With this option, your space receives a rustic wall light that's equally stylish and durable! Read More>

Also Available: The Original™ Warehouse LED Wall Sconce | The Original™ Warehouse LED Pendant | The Original™ Stem and Flush Mount LED Pendant

Shade Size:

12" Shade: 12"W x 7"H
14" Shade: 14"W x 7 ½"H
16" Shade: 16"W x 7 ¾"H
18" Shade: 18"W x 8 ½"H
20" Shade: 20"W x 9 ¼"H

Additional Information:

  • Finish: Multiple (See Finish Options)
  • Mounting: Multiple (See Gooseneck Options)
  • Backplate Dimensions: 2 ¼" Proj. x 6 ½" Dia.
  • Copper & Brass Backplate and Coupler Finish: Brushed aluminum backplate and coupler included with a selection of copper/brass goosenecks. 
  • Number of Sockets: 1
  • Use: CSA Listed for Wet Locations
  • Manufactured in the U.S.A. This light fixture is made-to-order to suit your custom specifications. Learn more about the process here.
  • No Returns Accepted on this Product
  • Natural finishes have an estimated 4 week manufacturing time

Please Note: No metal fixture, no matter the finish, is guaranteed against corrosion especially in salt air environments. If your fixtures will be installed in a location near salt water or with extreme weather conditions, we recommend routine and careful maintenance of your lighting including a mild soap-and-water wash and gentle buffing to help maintain the finish.

For copper and brass, the optional finishes are applied by hand, meaning slight variations may occur from shade to shade. Due to atmospheric conditions during the manufacturing process, additional discrepancies from the photos shown above are possible.

Additional LED Product Details:

  • LED Driver: Triac Dimming 12W / 120V Mounted In Canopy 
  • LED Dimming Option: Up to 5%; Requires Compatible Dimming Switch (See Spec Sheet)
  • LED Efficiency: Delivers over 95 Lumens Per Watt
  • LED Lumen(LM) Comparison: 850LM Compares to 60W INC. Bulb; 1250LM Compares to 75W INC. Bulb; 2000LM Compares to 150W INC. Bulb; 3000LM Compares to 200W INC. Bulb; 4000LM Compares to 250W INC. Bulb
  • LED Color Temperature: Cree TrueWhite® Technology, 2700K for 850 & 1250 Lumens, 2700K or 4000K for 2000 & 3000 Lumens, 4000K for 4000 Lumens
  • LED Warranty: 5 Year Parts and Labor Warranty

Please Note: No metal fixture, no matter the finish, is guaranteed against corrosion especially in salt air environments. If your fixtures will be installed in a location near salt water or with extreme weather conditions, we recommend routine and careful maintenance of your lighting including a mild soap-and-water wash and gentle buffing to help maintain the finish.

Reviews

Customer Reviews

Average rating

*****

5 reviews

Jeff Miller

12/05/2016, 11:10

*****
The good news is that I am very happy with the light I purchased (dark
green, gooseneck, LED). I spent months looking for exactly this type of
light. The product itself is solid, well built and well designed. I am
especially pleased to be able to buy something made in the USA. That was
a real plus.

While it took a bit longer for delivery than expected that was alright.
Getting what I wanted was far more important than a speedy delivery.
And, for most people I expect mounting the light is a relatively
straightforward affair, at least for most situations. Not for me.

Because I live in coastal North Carolina hurricanes are a concern. The
two mounting screws and anchors provided did not seem nearly sturdy
enough to handle high winds given the large "sail effect" of the lamp
shade and the leverage arising from the 29 inch gooseneck. And since I
was mounting it in my brick veneer over what was a pre-existing light,
installation was … interesting.

I decided to use 2 1/4" x 5/16" lag bolts with metal anchors to mount
the light. These were the largest bolts that would fit in the base
mounting holes. This required hammer drilling into the brick, filling
the hole with silicone adhesive/sealant, inserting the anchor along with
wood wedges to secure it in place and then mounting the base using the
lag bolts. I found that it was best to test the install first. Just
drill one hole and mount the base with one bolt. Drill a guide hole
through the other hole to ensure that everything will match up. If the
holes don't match up exactly with the base it won't work. Trust me. Once
the guide hole is done remove the base and complete the second hole.
Assemble the lamp itself and prepare it to be mounted.

The brief instructions for assembly were actually quite sufficient.
Better if I'd paid a bit more attention and got the "O" ring installed
the first time but it gave me practice in connecting the wires. Since
the previous light fixture used black, white and green wiring it was
easy to connect the proper wires for the outside power and switch. The
red/black wires for the LED power supply were obviously connecting to
the red/black wiring from the light. Mounting the LED power supply was
easy as well. I used Teflon tape to connect the shade to the gooseneck
as suggested. Note that the LED light itself screws onto the gooseneck
so once the gooseneck is secure be sure to tighten the LED light itself.


One issue was getting the lamp wires through the gooseneck. After
several futile attempts at just pushing them through I ended up using a
toilet snake since it is designed to go around curves. I "snaked" it
through the gooseneck going from the lamp end to the base end. Tied some
parachute cord to the snake and pulled the parachute cord back through
the gooseneck. Removed the cord from the snake and taped the lamp wiring
to the parachute cord. It was easy to pull it all the way back through
the gooseneck. It was much better to pull the wiring using the parachute
cord than it would have been with the snake. The snake had to twist and
turn to get around the corners. The cord was a straight pull.

One final issue was how to hold up the lamp while I made the wiring
connections to the wall. I needed something about 78" high to hold the
lamp end and a second something about 81" tall to hold the base end. You
really need a helper who could hold the lamp while the wiring is
connected. The lamp itself is surprisingly light so they don't have to
be very strong. Unfortunately I didn't have a helper. So I scrounged
around and used some empty 5 gallon buckets (with lids) and various
pieces of wood for the lamp end and an extendable paint handle for the
base end. It wasn't pretty but it worked. Got the wires connected,
tested the lamp (and yeah, I turned off power at the circuit box before
I messed with the wiring) to make sure it worked and went to complete
the install. I used more silicone sealant/adhesive to securely seal the
base to the brick and smoothed it using a wet finger (messy but it
works).

The biggest problem in finishing the install was getting the 5/16" lag
bolts tight. The socket just barely fit over the bolt head and had to be
pried off with a screwdriver when I needed to tighten the other bolt.
And when the bolt was tight. I did the bolts alternating (tighten one
most of the way, then the other and so forth) so there wouldn't be any
tension in the base. It was hard to get the socket off but a bear to get
it back on. With a bit of cussing and fussing it worked. The base is
tight against the brick, secured with silicone against moisture and the
lamp is solidly mounted.

Most importantly it sits right over my grill so I can make BBQ all
winter long and see what I'm doing. Thanks Barn Light.
Found useful: 0 out of 0
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DOMENIC

02/18/2016, 13:52

*****
It would be most helpful, for commercial usage, if your drivers are industry standard, being capable of connecting to 120-277v.
Your management and sales team are the best at their job.
Found useful: 0 out of 0
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Glade Ross

03/20/2015, 09:26

*****
I haven't put on my two lights yet, but I've assembled them, and they look beautiful.
Found useful: 0 out of 0
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